There
is soo much to do in Ethiopia. So many historical sights to see (the believed
site of the Ark of the Covenant..!!! Hello Indiana Jones), Simian mountains to
trek, safaris to take, and even (Meredith!) hyenas to feed! Not to mention
cities called the Shire and Gondar (Gonder) - so, as you can expect, as a
Religious Studies Major and a Lord of the Rings fan; my mind was/is blown. ONLY
there’s a tiny voice inside my head that keeps saying “Hey, it’s probably a terrible idea to travel alone in Africa.” I
know, life without risks is no life at all- but I can’t help but agree.
SO.
I’ve decided to spend the week in Addis Ababa instead and check out the Museums
(the National Archaeology Museum has a replica of Lucy, the 3.2 million old skeleton), Historical Monuments (The Lion of Judah- pretty sweet story
behind it), have a look at the Cathedrals & Mosques and find all the
notorious Juice bars & Cafes in town! I’m also secretly desperate to eat
some Ferengi food- I know you lot were snacking on chocolate all weekend! Lucky
monkeys.
Now,
I mentioned before that I’m a Religious Major- so I was stoked to see what
Easter would be like here in a predominantly Orthodox Christian culture, and I
wasn’t let down. Addis was practically Biblical. I was shocked and in heaven
(terrible but intended pun).
Orthodox
Christians in Ethiopia fast for 55 days preceding Easter, and the fasting
varies depending on the intensity of the person. However, almost everyone
refrains from eating meat/dairy for those 55 days. Others do this and also
refrain from touching others with their hands (so they shake by turning their
arm inwards and touching your wrist and lower arm with theirs). And then on
Good Friday & Fasika Eve- you really do Fast.
I
happened to spend Good Friday in Addis with Banchi. She was going into
town to get some bus tickets to go home, and I needed to do some errands for
the YG as well- so we decided to go in together. Banchi warned me that
it’d be really busy, so she suggested we get up at 5 and head in early.
With the language barrier, the ticket purchasing was not communicated- so
I just thought we were shopping. But no matter, I discovered along the
way (a common theme in this journey) what we were doing as we arrived at a
ticket market-of-sorts. Ticket vendors lined the inside of a boxed U
shaped building. At first the crowds were scattered but as the morning
continued lines began to form as people found their destination vendor, while
others sat in large groups under the only shaded areas. Unfortunately we
weren’t able to get any tickets until 12:30 and I didn’t mind, as my brain was
so tired I willed away the time by daydreaming. Daydreaming is also an
effective way to avoid stares, and ignore comments, winks & the followings
of other ticket purchasers. But despite many an uncomfortable moment, I
was taken in by the amazing abundance of people who were traveling to spend
Easter with family or in Holy Sites; dressed in white shawls, carrying their
Sunday best, bundles of food, and cradling precious religious ornaments.
Men, women and children patiently sat in the golden dirt, waiting in the
unforgivable sun for their tickets. While others stood/ sat on rocks in a
line, praying that a vendor would come soon. When tickets were purchased,
people joyously poured out of the Boxed U (by a small tunnel on one side) to
the parking lot to board the awaiting coaches. It was a sight to
behold.
When
Banchi got her tickets we literally skipped out of the building and to the
delight of other passerbys, I fist-punched the air, wooping for joy. We
were free from the golden dust and burning sun. And I was no longer
trapped like a zoo animal to be goggled at, in a way that makes you feel your
stomach in & exhale at an increasing rate (aka. a bad feeling).
So
off we went on our errand hunt. I’ll be honest. It was a disaster,
and for good reason. The streets were filled with people and with animals
being led to the slaughter. Herds of sheep and goats were pushed across
streets and even highways. Bulls and oxen were reluctantly dragged down
the pavements, and they helplessly dug their hooves into the litter filled
sidewalks as if they knew what was coming. Shops were closed but vendors
were still out for business with people rushing to get their last minute goods
for a weekend of celebration. And despite the desolate animals - the streets
were practically humming with the excitement and rush of the oncoming of
Fasika.
Saturday
came, and by this time all the girls had gone home. It was my first
Friday night alone at Yaya, but I didn’t mind- when I woke up I took full
advantage of making my own breakfast; a fried egg on toast. I even found
some ketchup and smothered it on! I followed it up with marmalade on
toast, a banana and a pot of chai tea. It was brilliant. While I’m
getting used to Ethiopian cuisine, it’s amazing how much I’ve missed Ferengi
food.
Sunday
came, and Lamrot came back from Addis for her shift at Yaya. She arrived
before I woke up, so when I went for breakfast I was greeted by a smiling
Lamrot and French toast. Amazing. After breakfast we went out into
the horses compound and cut long grass to cover the floors of our rooms (only
done on special occasions), and later we headed into Addis for a Fasika
lunch! We went to a hotel she trained at as a server, but first we joined
a gathering in the basement. Once again, not really knowing what was
going on- I followed Lamrot as she greeted what seemed to be a family sitting
in a half circle, watching an old woman carve meat off what I think was a
lamb. I was offered a drink and to the delight of the family I was poured
a large class of some sort of juice! Thirsty; I took a large glup to
discovered that it was tef, a Ethiopian alcoholic drink. I can’t really
begin to describe it, but I drank as much as I thought would pass as polite and
with every sip took a bite out of the bread that was being passed around.
After a while Lamrot
and I headed up stairs for Lamrot's first meat meal in 2 months- a dish of
injera with a meat and spinach stew- and we washed it down with a pint of beer!
What a way to celebrate! After, we headed to a café for chocolate cake and a
macchiato with a friend of Lamrot's from the restaurant- and
then headed back to Yaya.
However, to get home we had to tackle the streets teeming
with people and this time, animal skins, carcasses, and random animal body
parts. Now, I'm not a vegetarian, but as I tripped over skins and caught myself
from falling as I stepped on something still unbeknown to me- I can very much
imagine becoming one. What I did appreciate was the fact that every part of the
animal slaughtered was used, it's local meat, and at least the chances of
hormones being injected into the animals eaten are very slim. Animals aren't
treated properly here-but I say that from a Western perspective. At home our
horses are plump and aren't shy of people, dogs are pets or
ornaments, donkeys and goats are found in petting zoos and sheep live
in grassy pens where they get nice and fat. Here animals are tools and then food, nothing more and nothing less. And fair enough, I would feel sorrier for the animals if it weren't for the poverty that decorates that streets. We can spoil our domestic animals because we don't need rabid dogs, tamed only enough to act as guard dogs nor do our livelihoods rely on horses or donkeys.Anyway, off we popped home, and while Lamrot went to work I whizzed through a autobiography of Kelly Holmes (800m & 1500m Gold Medalist in the 2005 Athens Olympics- I can still see her as she came from the back of the pack in the 15, and with 100m to go ripped it to the finish line. incredible woman). What a Ethiopian Easter to behold, and although I didn't go to church I felt like I celebrated it more than I ever had before.
Anyway, I'll have loads more internet for the next couple days, so I'll be taking advantage of it!
Also, the fundraiser for the girls is up and running! It's only functioning until May 1st, so please donate sooner than later or spread on the news of the Yaya Girls to others! I'm sorry I haven't focused on them in this entry- but I've been without them!! :(
I've attached the link to the website; http://startsomegood.com/YGpower where you can find out more about Yaya Girls and meet the lovely spice girls themselves!!
My blog for the Yaya Girls is; http://yayagirls.wordpress.com/2014/04/17/ygpower-fundraiser/
Please check them both out!
Write soon! x
Steph
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