The Great Trek North (Day One & Two)

The week before last Banchi and I got the bad news that the GLOW Camp had been cancelled this year due to social unrest in the residing town. We had been really excited as it’s a female empowerment camp run by the Peace Corps, we were going to work as volunteers and Yoordoanas and some of the Yaya girls were really keen on going too. But these things happen.

SO knowing that my time at Yaya was winding down, I decided to seize the opportunity and embark on a trip to Northern Ethiopia. Initially, when I arrived in Ethiopia I was disheartened as I felt there was no way I could travel as a solo female, but the more hotel guests and Ethiopians I met from outside of Addis, it dawned on me that it would be a crime to let the opportunity to explore Ethiopia slip by. It was time to grow up, put away my teddies, saddle up and get out there. I’m kidding, I obviously brought Keiko.

I booked a flight to Gondar, set my eyes on Axum and booked a return flight from Lalibela; and was gone before the sun rose on Sunday morning. The Saturday before I left while perusing a guide book (Ethiopia; Briggs- excellent guide, highly recommend it) given to me by my new found friend and English fell runner, Matt- I discovered a tour guide called Sisay Asefa in Gondar, who arranged city tours. Usually I wouldn’t bother with a guide, as most of my foreign explorations have been with my family- and we like to rough it. But I thought, hey, why not. While I could have done it myself, I figured for the first city it’d be nice to have some structure.

 

DAY ONE;

With just a backpack filled with clothes, an extra pair of shoes, my journal, Keiko and my camera I set out from Yaya at 5:30 and by 10:00 I was standing outside Gondar airport, searching for a man holding sign with my name. Alex quickly found me, as I was the only Ferengi in sight- and in no time we were zipping along a country road towards the lusciously green city of Gondar. We arrived in town and picked up Sisay and headed to a hotel he’d found for me. To be honest it was a bit expensive- 600 Bir (30$) for one night, but the hotels I’d been leaning towards were super shady as Sisay showed me later. So I figured it’d be a treat for my first night out of Yaya.

Sisay gave me half an hour to “freshen up” and then we met up to begin our tour. Gondar, I am told was, until 1994, the capital of Ethiopia for 250+ years. It was founded by Emperor Fasilidas in 1635 and was chosen for its location as it sits between two rivers, is surrounded by 7 mountains and because of the altitude, there are no mosquitoes and thus, it’s a malaria free zone. We started with the Fasil Ghebbi (Royal Enclosure), which lies in the center of town and covers an area of 70,000m2(Briggs, 224). They call it the Camelot of Africa, and when it would have been in its prime it really would have been straight out of a fairytale, with the original castle being built in 1640 by Emperor Fasilidas. The stone walls surrounding it are around 12 feet tall, and you can see the turrents and crumbling walls of the castles within from every direction as the city of Gondar has a rule that no building can be taller than those within the enclosure, so as to allow the city’s greatest treasure to be seen from all around. I love it when people take history serious. There are six castles within, of various sizes and conditions. Unfortunately the Italians took over the Royal Enclosure during WWII and while they made quite a few damaging changes to some of the castles (in an attempt to make them livable again) the British also bombed quite a few of the

major buildings; so if you’re British, keep that tidbit of information to yourself as the locals still feel a little sore about it.

The castles were built with Portuguese, Axumite and even Indian influences (Briggs, 224)- and they’re stunning. Among the castles there also lies a lions cage, which looks a quite sad and once held ten domesticated big cats. It was common for Emperors to walk with lions by their side, as lions were the symbol of Ethiopia for centuries. There are saunas that are similar in structure to those of the ancient Roman baths, a massive stable that could house about 20 horses, a banquet hall, a theater hall, courtyards, and bridges that lead into the city- allowing the royals to avoid the plebs.

(to the left of the center sauce- raw intestines)

After the Royal Enclosure, Sisay took me to “the most famous” restaurant in town- the Four Sisters. As you guessed it, it’s owned and run by four sisters- and it really is a beautiful place, and again I would recommend it to anyone heading to Gondar. So we settled down and under Sisay’s encouragement I order the National Dish- which turned out to be a giant ingera platter with a serving of all the traditional ingera sauces, meats and veg. I’d had most of them before, and knew I ought to avoid the raw meat sauces- but there was one that I didn’t recognize, so I asked the waiter to explain each sauce- and he went through them all, leaving the one I was unsure of last, finally I pointed at this white and pink mix of meat and asked- “And this?” He paused, smiled and replied, “…that’s raw cow intestine”. Ah, yes. It’s a rare delicacy here, but while I usually like to follow the whole When in Rome thing, I gave this one a pass. I ate as much as I could, but little did I know I would later spend the evening quite ill.

While I was having lunch Sisay headed off to get a bus ticket so I could head to Axum the next day. The man is brilliant. When he came back we headed off to see a monastery called Debre Birhan Selassie that is so beautiful it could put the Sistine Chapel to shame. According to my guide book, “there are 44 churches in Gondar, at least seven of which date from Fasilidas’s rule, but most of the original buildings were destroyed in 1888 when Gondar was attacked… The only Gonderine church that escaped entirely untouched was Debre Birhan Selassie (“Mountain of the Enlightened Trinity”), saved…by the intervention of a swarm of bees…or so they say in Gondar”(Briggs, 227). It was founded by Iyasu I in the 1690s, and as the most important church in 18^th-century Gondar, when it was the site of several royal burials.

Inside the church is painted head to toe with Biblical scenes, and they’re still the original ones-painted in the 16^th century with paints made from vegetables- and it took the 17^th-century artist Haile Meskel, four years to complete his work. The ceiling is decorated with paintings of eighty cherubic faces with lovely big brown eyes, each looking in a different direction to show that they’re all seeing. Sisay explained that traditional Ethiopian painters painted the skin of their subjects different shades- and in the most beautiful way they allow their subject to be both Habesha (Ethiopian) and Ferengi (Western), as the skin subtly fades from dark to light. The monastery is built to look like a lion with the head at the entrance and the tail is found within the stone enclosure. The body, Sisay explained, is the area within the stone enclosure to symbolize that God is all around us. As my journey continued I realized that religious symbolism is the center of every religious and medieval structure- there is a reason to every rhyme.

After Debre Birhan Selassie, we headed to Fasilidas’s Pool, “…which lies just outside of town and is 2,800m2 sunken bathing poo generally attributed to Emperor Fasilidas. It is enclosed by a tall stone wall with six turrents, and is overlooked by a two-storey building widely said to have been Fasilidas’s second residence” (Briggs, 226). It’s basically a little castle built within a huge bath, with a bridge leading out to it. The pool is filled by a water system that connects to a local river, and was drained back into the river when it was out of use. It is dry most of the year, and was probably always used ceremonially rather than for leisure. The pool is the central stage on which the Timkat or Epiphany Festival is celebrated in Gondar, which takes place during the 18^th-20^th of January. Apparently “it is led by colourfully attired priests carrying tabots and crosses, thousands of white-robed worshippers converge around the pool in the afternoon, where they are blessed and sprinkled with holy water” (Briggs, 226). People from around the world come to join or watch this holy celebration.

 

All along the pool are trees that have allowed their roots to climb over, under and through the stone wall surrounding the pool. Of course, they too just want to dip their toes in- but it looks amazing. Like something out of The Jungle Book. It’s pretty cool when nature takes over man-made structures. Pretty darn cool.

So that was our city tour- but Sisay and I got on so well he took me to a hotel on top of a giant peak to get a panoramic view of the city. It was amazing. Being a Lord of the Rings fan I was pretty excited to be in Gondar- and while there no wizards or handsome-rough-looking Kings, they do have some sweet castles and with the rolling green hills, like camel humps, it feels like nothing bad could ever touch the city. Even with the poverty, there is a calmness and happiness that I haven’t found in Addis. I suppose it’s like my Dad says, “Just because there is poverty, doesn’t mean there’s unhappiness.”

Sisay dropped me back at my hotel, I paid him and he offered to come back later to check out the town. I skipped dinner, hit up my room- and that’s when the stomach bug hit. “Stomach Trouble” number 3. Brilliant. Just before my bus trip to Axum, which was going to be ten hours through the Simen mountains and out again, but I whispered to my body “not cool, don’t do this”, and after a while I was fine again.  I was able to wander through Gondar with Sisay til dusk, and enjoyed a macchiato while we people watched. It was lovely, and Sisay Asefa is a really cool guy- if you’re interested in taking a tour in Gondar give him a call, 0918712125 or email him at asefa_sisay@yahoo.com. He knows everyone and really makes sure you’re safe and happy.


DAY TWO;

So, the next morning I was up at 4 to catch my 5:00 bus to Shire (and then a minibus to Axum). I caught a three wheeled Tuk-tuk (taxi), to the station and picked up another Ferengi along the way, a Chinese lady called Christine. We arrived at the station to see a massive crowd also waiting to get in and board the buses. At exactly 5:00 the gates opened and everyone flooded in, running to the buses. I found mine and said goodbye to my new friend, who claimed to be on a different bus to Axum, and settled down into my assigned seat at the back of a rickety bus.  Holding my bag to my chest I watched the havoc of the hundreds of bus travelers. People were trying to slip on, unseen and without tickets while others were climbing the roof to tie on their goods (but I was certain they were trying to buckle themselves in up there), people were arguing about seats and rushing & pushing to find their bus. Others were having emotional goodbyes and trying to make the most of every second they had together. It was craziness. But finally, something was said in Amharic by our bus driver, and everyone on the bus sank into their places and fell silent. I hope you can imagine my eyes, wide as saucers at this moment- it’s my classic look when I have no idea what’s going on, but I know something IS going on. Haha- so at 6:00 we were off and on the road to Axum.

The countryside was beautiful, but for about two hours I slipped in and out of sleep- accumulating a lovely bruise on my right temple as we went. When I finally woke up we were entering the mountains and my bus buddy, a young teenager was asleep on my shoulder. I didn’t mind, as the bus was terribly packed, with people sitting on water tubs in the asile, standing in stairwell, and the longer bench like seats were packed with people. However, once my bus buddy woke up I was wishing he was back on my shoulder. I suppose he was pretty interested in the bus, the road and any construction we passed as he loved to open the window on my side, and push his head out. I didn’t mind at first- it was pretty hot and sweaty inside but warm & windy (and dusty) outside, so I understood his eagerness to get some fresh air- but after while I got tired of him leaning out in front of me, resting his body on my bag and having his armpits in my face. It was beginning to be a bit of hellish ride, and finally came to an end when we were going through a bumpy patch, and while leaning out the window/ squashing me against the side of the bus, he (unintentionally) elbowed me in the throat and I pulled out my teachers voice with a stern “Excuse me!” He sat down and that was the end of his window viewings.

The trip was pretty terrible to be honest- but the views were stunning. The road through the Siemen mountains were snake-like and dangerous, but our driver navigated them with ease. There were many a time when we could have easily toppled off the road and landed again on the road directly below us. The mountains seem to be strangely thin- allowing you to see the road below as it snakes along; into the valley and up the next mountain. It’s amazing. I didn’t see any wildlife, only the nests of Weaver birds, which are like mini bungalows woven from twigs and straw- it’s incredible. The mountains are luscious and green, with mist circling their jagged peaks- and the mountains in the distance are blueish gray. It was absolutely stunning- the majority of the bus was silent during our mountain trek; with everyone peering out the windows, and scanning the mountain side for wildlife or just taking it all in.

We finally arrived in (the) Shire- actually pronounced as Sher-ee, but I refuse to call it anything other than THE Shire!! Muahaha- it was around 4:30 pm. Our bus was met in this tiny town by dozens of young men and boys asking for our next destination- I was immediately rushed across town square towards a minibus and hustled into a minibus headed for Axum. Christine from the Tuk-tuk also joined me, as she was actually sitting at the front of the bus and it had taken me almost 5 hours to realize she was there. SO off we went to the dusty city of Axum.

 

So I think that's a fairly good place to end this entry. I'll write about the following days in again this week. Thanks for reading so far!! xx

"No one cries alone"

Where to begin!? So much has happened, it’s hard to know how to start this one. This is what happens kids, when you put things off you find yourself in a pickle. What is it my Dad always tells me?

“Never put off what you can do today”.

 
It usually followed a discussion about last minute homework (ahh Sunday school nights, you were always fun). Top notch man, Happy Father’s Day once again! 

So, let’s see- on May 30^th the Yaya girls graduated from the program. They finished up their classes, all got straight A’s on their final test (I may have been a little lenient), I gave them one last “Easter Egg” hunt and Xavier was able to spend the last two days of the program with us. It was a pretty awesome week and a great way to say goodbye. Actually a funny thing happened the morning of their last day, and it really hit me how close the girls became.

It was just before lunch and I decided to call my parents- I knew they’d be up (with a time difference of 7 hours) and getting ready to leave for work, so it was now or never decision. Luckily I just caught them as they were heading out the door, and I really just wanted to say Hey- but when my Mum told me she missed me, a couple of raindrops started winding their way down my cheek. And at that very moment Yoorodanas appeared at my door to tell me lunch was ready- she saw my tears and I motioned that I’d be just a minute. She nodded, and looking worried headed back to the kitchen- where she told the girls I was upset. The next thing I knew all four girls were rushing into my room. Alumseye, the youngest, took one look at me and broke down, stumbling and grasping for the wall to support herself. I was in complete shock,

(L-R; Alumseye, Asnaketch, Tigist, & Lamrot)

“…alright Mum, got to go. You won’t believe this. OK. Got to go.” Click.

 
The rest of the girls were confused with who to comfort, with Lamrot at my side, Asnaketch clutching her face and Tigist holding on to Alumseye. After we calmed Alumseye down, we went for lunch where I was goushed like never before, and because I wasn’t being allowed to feed myself I goushed them all back. For the rest of the day if I held Alumseye’s eyes for more than 5 seconds, she’d well up. Of course the girls assumed I was upset because they were leaving, and I couldn’t really tell them otherwise- and well, I’m not saying I wasn’t sorry to see them go, but I usually don't cry at goodbyes. Nonetheless, I’ll never forget that morning. Apparently a similar thing happened to a previous Yaya Girls volunteer, Samantha- and I remember she told me,

“…it’s a beautiful thing…no one cries alone.” Amen sista.

 It’s been a few weeks now, and Alumseye has come back a few times- she still trains with the Yaya coach, which is awesome. Lamrot’s still working at the hotel, and continued to live next door to me for a week or so- but now she’s officially move back to Addis. Yoorodanas comes in the morning to cook and prepare meals for Banchi and myself for the day (gah, we’re so spoilt) - but sometimes Banchi doesn’t come for lunch/dinner so I’m always left with loads of food. I try to pawn it off on hotel staff as they pass by (Inibla!- eat with me), but for the most part it’s saved and used the next day. Actually last Saturday I “hosted” a hotel guest, Matt, a super cool fell runner from Nottingham, and even we couldn’t finish everything.

Just some camels, nbd.

Most days it’s just me and Keiko (my stuffed Orca and top travelling companion), and we (lol) chat with the staff, work on an NGO application to make the Yaya Girls official, gather English lessons from the internet, and have slumblies at Banchi’s. I do miss the giggles of the girls, but for the most part I’m enjoying this down time. I’ve been able to get some travelling in and spent the whole of last week up North exploring Gondar, Axum and Lalibella. Absolutely fantastic trip. If you remember I was nervous to travel when I first arrived, and rightly so- you’ve got to have your wits about you- but once you have them gathered, it’s easy business.

So now that I’ve set the stage for the “Great Trip”, I’ll leave it as that for now and I’ll post an entry about the trip within the next couple days. Maybe even tomorrow if you’re lucky.

Meow x

"In Ethiopia, it's hard"

I’ve been trying to keep my entries lighthearted, I’ll admit I’ve been selective about what stories I’ve shared and I honestly don’t write unless I’m happy. I mentioned in one of my earlier entries about the poverty, the poor animals and the rubbish. I haven’t gone into detail of the beggars, the blind men wandering the streets, or the mothers with children at their feet and babies on their breasts. I haven’t told you about the half-naked young woman reeling in pain, lying on her back in the middle of the pavement as two babies clung to both breasts, searching for milk. It is shocking and people help when they can, but for the most part people harden themselves to this poverty. What else can you do? You give to whom you can, and hope that the young children won’t use the money for glue.  But perhaps sniffing glue is the only escape from their reality- and while it many only last a few hours, maybe that’s worth more than food? I’m not sure. I don’t want to believe it is.

But people are friendly. Despite the mad driving; overtaking around corners and over hills, very few traffic lights, no adherence to zebra crossings, swerving to avoid stray dogs, packs of docile donkeys and horse drawn carts, and the abrupt minibus stops to pick up random people along the roads- everyone remains calm! Yes, there might be the odd middle finger thrown around or a few taps to the temple, but road rage is not the Ethiopian way. In fact people apologize, wave or more often, toot their horns to express their thanks or signal that they’re moving.

But it’s more than that. Yesterday I was inline waiting for a minibus to take me back to Suluta from Addi Sui when I noticed a man stumbling out of a hole-in–the-wall tavern. He was absolutely tanked and as he was making his way down the stairs he aggressively grabbed the jacket of another fairly tipsy man, pulling him towards his chest. I thought- here we go, the fists are going to fly now… But the second man gently loosened the first man’s grip and instead of retaliating, he guided him down the stairs. 

And the week before last Banchi and I had hitched a ride from a lorry (I know…perhaps a questionable decision) into town and as traffic slowed going down the mountainous hills towards Addis, we saw that loads of minibuses, lorries and cars had pulled over and people were gathering at the side of the road. As we drove past we noticed that a woman who’d been carrying a large load of sticks was unconscious and lying in the gutter with a massive welt on her forehead. It must have just happened as people were still trying to carry her out of the gutter. Our lorry driver stopped grabbed the water bottle in my hand and sprinted over to her. We’ll never know what happened to her, and we can only pray she survived- but it was overwhelming to see how many people had stopped and were trying to help.

I recounted both stories to a new hotel guest, Marco- an Italian marathoner from Dubai- and we agreed that while we may get some unwanted attention as foreigners, the general population is friendly. Perhaps it’s the deep-set fear of God due the intense religiosity here- whether it be Orthodox Christianity, Islam, Catholicism or Protestantism. I’m not sure- I mean there are literally pictures of Jesus and Mary everywhere (alongside posters of Will Smith, 50 Cent, Rooney, Christiano Ronaldo, Lampard and Alex Ferguson) and the phrases Selum Nu-“Peace” (be with you), Xavier Mesgal- “Thank God”,and Xavier Yestivus- “God be with you” are constantly used either as greetings, exclamations or blessings to those in need. So yes, religion is a major part of Ethiopian culture- but I believe it goes further than, as community also plays a strong part in Ethiopian culture.

For example, the traditional meal is ingera (a spongy flat pancake-like bread, that’s been fermented and made from tef - it’s also gluten free and full of iron) and is typically eaten with a type of bean based sauce or meat stew placed in the middle of the ingera. The meal is typically shared, and is eaten by taking a piece of ingera in your fingers and scooping up some sauce/stew, folding it quickly into a little package and voila! You may only use your right hand, take from the area in front of you, and when placing the package in your mouth avoid putting your fingers in/on your mouth. Gousha is the practice of feeding others- this is a sign of respect, informality and love. To refuse is insulting, and it’s bad luck to be gousha’ed an uneven number of times. If you’re loved enough you can go a whole meal without even touching the food. Whenever anyone is eating they call to others saying “Inibla”- eat with us/me- and it’s seen as an endearing invitation but it seems that eating alone is not part of the Ethiopian culture. So if you’re with someone who’s eating, prepare to be gousha’ed. (We eat it for dinner every night, and I already know I’ll miss it when I come home. Group meals are the best, and with just a dish and a pot there’s hardly any washing up to do- BONUS!)

Just like the Irish, Ethiopians love to feed others.  Throughout a meal the host encourages its guest(s) to “Bea” –eat- or “Blah” if it’s a male guest. And the food just keeps on coming, even if that means the host offering food from his/her own plate. I’ve actually been at a sleepover and just as we were falling asleep my amazing friend and host Banchi insisted that I was hungry and rummaged up some bread. It was delicious but my British backbone made sure we shared it.

While I’ve mostly complained about men in my previous posts, I want to press the fact that my overall impression of Ethiopian people in general has been wonderful. From the men who gave up their seats for me on a minibus, to the old woman who offered to be my Ethiopian mother (after I told her my Habesha name), to the young man who was sure that I was lost and repeatedly asked how he could help me, to the friends I’ve made at Yaya and the “GoushaWars” with the girls- I do believe Ethiopians have Canadians beat for friendliness. There have been countless times that Banchi has struck up lively conversations with complete strangers, offered labourers from Yaya Village to eat and drink coffee with us, and has put the Yaya girls and even me, before herself. I know Banchi is only one person, but she’s convinced me that this is the true Ethiopian way.

The Yaya girls might be madams sometimes, but what teenager isn’t every now and again- these girls have already gone through so much and now, after 5 months of free education, food, shelter and the opportunity to grow, make friends and get vocational training, these girls have to go home and start again (this time armed with positive experiences). Yesterday Banchi and I interviewed them individually to take note of their plans for after Yaya; where they would live, where they’d like to work, if they were excited for the upcoming Coca race and Camp GLOW (a female empowerment camp in June, hosted and run by the Peace Core), and if they’d consider coaching after they’d finished competing.

While she lived alone before Yaya, Tigist is planning on moving in with her Uncle in Addis until she can save up for her own place. Asnakitch will move back home until she gets financially back on her feet (I told her I’m doing the same when I get back to Canada, which cheered her up), Alumseye will move in with her Uncle in Waserbi- just 5 mins walk from Yaya andLamrot will move in with a friend in Addis but she’ll continue to work at Yaya Village. The girls are excited for the race and the camp, but when we asked Alumseye her eyes welled up and she admitted she’s worried that her Uncle won’t let her go to the camp. I was shocked and asked Banchi why he’d be opposed to the camp as the Yaya Girls Program will pay for it, it’s educational and girls across the country have to compete (with written essays) to be accepted but our girls have an automatic in…! Banchi shrugged, tipped her head to the side and replied, “In Ethiopia, it’s hard.”- a phrase Banchi often uses to answer my cultural/societal questions.

Like any patriarchal society, in place of a father figure uncles have the last say over matters, even if it’s just to make a point of who’s boss. Now, I don’t know this Uncle, and if he raised Alumseye I’d assume he’s a great guy- but if he refuses to let Alumseye go,Banchi and I have agreed that we’ll try to convince him ourselves. But I can’t seem to get Alumseye’s tear filled eyes out of my mind, nor can I forget watching her swallow the lump in her throat.

Interestingly enough, while I’ve seen a glimpse of the poverty of Addis, the sad eyes of beaten animals and the rubbish littering the streets and forests, Alumseye’s worry for permission hit the strongest cord. Perhaps it’s because I know this girl as constantly laughing, offering encouraging smiles, and as one of the keenest to learn English- but it may also be because asking for permission is something I constantly dealt with in High School and into University. Like many parents, mine have always wanted the very best for me, and like many teenagers there were things I did without permission; whether it was asking and doing it anyway, or not asking and doing because I knew what answer I’d get. I wasn’t a bad kid, but things like going for a sleepover with my best friend C.J, and later crawling out a basement window for a party was sometimes a necessary evil. Of course, being a little bit older I now understand why my parents would have been worried had they known- and I’ll be just as protective as a parent. But when I saw Alumseye’s eyes I immediately thought about the tattoo on my heel that I got without permission- and while my Dad was furious,I did it knowing I wouldn’t actually be disowned. However, the fear in Alumseye gives me the sense that “No” really means No and dis-ownment might be areal option- and for the first time I’m worried for these girls and the homes they’re going back to… because “In Ethiopia, it’s hard.”

I can only hope that the lessons they learned atYaya will keep them strong, empowered and propel them towards success. They know that they’re always welcome back at Yaya and we’ve asked them to always keep us updated on their home addresses and phone numbers, so we can check in on them. That’s all I think we can really do; it’s time for our little Spice chicks to leave the nest and see what their wings can do! <3

Disappearing in Habesha Life

Yergurta, 

L-R: Alumseye, Asnakitch, Yorodanas, Lamrot, & Tigist

Habesha life has run away with me! Semi-literally. I also haven’t had internet, so my urge to write hasn’t been as strong. It’s pretty darn refreshing not having access to social media, but of course the downfall is being one of the last to hear exciting news- LIKE MY BEST FRIEND GETTING INTO MEDICAL SCHOOL! SO amazing. I’m very proud, and she deserves such success as she is one of the hardest working, intelligent, strongest & kindest souls I’ve ever met.  In a nutshell, I’m blessed to have her in my life.<3

I’m also blessed to be here. But as I only have about 8 weeks left, I’m trying my best to soak in all things Habesha. Since my last entry I’ve hit up the Orthodox Christian Church twice (quite the experience), been honoured with a Habesha name, stunned a pickpocket, enjoyed some serendipitous moments and met some interesting characters. I did give the girls a “Easter Egg” Hunt, and it was a huge success, I followed the hunt up with a test too- kind of a good cop, bad cop move- which wasn’t as big of a hit… but hey, how many people actually like their English teachers? A minimal amount, amirite? (But Mrs. Waters- was, hands down, the coolest.)

A little unsure at first...

My coaching career has been a bit of a bust as the girls preferred an Ethiopian coach, which is completely understandable as communication and running philosophy must be shared between the coach and the runner. Having both a Western and personal view on running and no previous coaching experience we agreed it’d be best if Joseph(the Hotel Owner and founder of the Yaya
Girls) would find the Program a professional coach! He begins this week which is awesome- the girls don’t know yet, so it’ll be a nice surprise!! The girls have also nearly completed the Yaya Program, as they’ve been here for around 5 months (4 months is the usual length of the program, and then we bring in a new group of girls)- so they’ll actually be graduating in 2 weeks!! It’ll be sad to see them go, but I can definitely vouch for the success of the empowerment segment of the program, as all four girls are confident, strong young women. I wish I could have met them when they first entered the Program to see their full growth- but they’re development in English class has been wonderful. I’m not sure if I mentioned before, but our cook, Yorodanas has been joining the English classes while I’ve been here and I’ve been so blessed to see how her English has come along in the past month and half. As her English improves, the once shy and quiet young lady is becoming chatty and outgoing;it’s pretty incredible.

The Easter Egg Hunt was pretty hilarious though. Like everyone’s first hunt the girls were confused and then ecstatically scrambled around the gardens in search of chocolates. They were soon squealing at the sight of a flash of golden wrapping and playfully wrestling for ownership. I had intended there to be 10 chocolates each, but after I’d hidden them and gone to fetch the girls, the hotel staff had a mini hunt of their own and there was no getting them back…haha.  Unfortunately the test afterwards wasn’t as successful as planned as they’d been a bit naughty the previous weeks- and among other things; they hadn’t been paying attention in class (lovely girls, but sometimes they’re your average teenagers…). So the rest of the week we revised the test and relearnt the lessons on positions (On, Off, Inside, Outside, Behind, In Front, Below, Above, and so on). I gave them another mini test on Friday and they all did much better! So I’ve promised that if they ALL get 100% on the next test then I’ll give them another “Easter Egg” Hunt. It’s the carrot-on-a-stick methodology, hahah.

...but then mayhem.

I should also mention that I’m really soaking in the Habesha life. Despite the language barriers and cultural differences I’ve been pulling out some chameleon skills; I know enough Habesha to shop, share greetings, and politely avoid any hassle because I’m a Ferengi. The girls have even given me a Habesha name; Zoditu! It’s perfect for meeting locals or people I probably won’t meet again, as I’ve found Stephanie is a tricky name to remember and say here. Zoditu was chosen because my name means “crown” in Latin, and Zodi is the Habesha translation. But Zoditu was an Ethiopian Queen who brought about/ led a great battle in Ethiopia centuries ago- I don’t know her whole story yet but I get the sense she was a bit like Boudicca; leading the Celts to battle against the Romans in Classical Britain. So all in all she sounds like a pretty charming gal. I get some comments that I’m not fierce enough to be a Zoditu but, I dunno- I don’t want to brag, but I stunned a pickpocket last week. I was downtown and felt movement in my track bag. I spun around and caught a teenage boy with his hand in my bag- I didn’t say anything but I think my eyes said it all because his face told me I’d given him a glare my Mother would’ve been proud of. I think I’ll stick with Zoditu for now.

 

I’ve been meeting loads of interesting characters too! Yaya Village has led me to meet Anna, a German lady- and I was basically her running guide for a week. Unbeknown to her I was taking her on trails I’d never explored before- but to my surprise, we never got lost! So that was a plus. Next Rob came, a British man working as a private consultant (surveying prisons) for the UN, and while he was only here for a few days it was wicked to hear his stories and refreshing to enjoy some good old English banter. Twice two American ladies, Jessie and Ingrid, came to visit for an early morning Saturday run- and as Ingrid is a qualified Yoga instructor- we even had a free yoga class one Saturday! So that was pretty sweet.

A group of 8 doctors from Montreal even came for an afternoon. Again, I acted as their running guide but during the run we came across a group of local children playing football in a field and we joined them for a game! It was probably my favourite “run” since I’ve been here; we had so much fun! I haven’t played in almost a year, and I surprised the boys with my Sporty Spiceness as I scored and a performed a victorious airplane show for them. But the biggest surprise that day was hearing that one of the doctors lives a few streets away from my Aunt & Uncle and Grandparents in Montreal!! I couldn’t believe it. I love small world things.

 

I had another small world encounter last week when I was downtown. A friend of Banchi’s took us to an arcade, and as we were downtown there were Ferengies everywhere! I was counting them and was reaching the 40 when my tall, blonde and blue eyed Number 38 came towards me! I was wearing a Queen’s track jacket, and he spotted the yellow “Q”, began beaming and asked; 

Him- “Do you go to Queen’s??!”

Me- “No way..! I DO! Don’t tell me you do too!?”

Him- “YEA! Queen’s, New York right?”

Me-“Ah, no Queen’s, Kingston…”

Okay, okay, so it was wasn’t quite a small world encounter, but I was still pretty excited- more excited than when I was proposed to on the spin bike... Haha, initially I was flattered, but it quickly became irritating. This unrequited love began a few weeks ago; I was minding my own business, spinning away when two guys walked in- spotted me, and hunkered down on a bike on either side of me. After a few minutes the one on my left, Solm, turned to me and said “Hala, hala”. I grinned back and said “Amasaganalu”; thanking him- assuming he was encouraging me as I working up a sweat. His friend, Alec, burst into laughter, recognizing the miscommunication- apparently this man wasn’t saying “Harder, harder”, but “I love you, I love you.” Ahh. Classic mistake, right? The rest of my workout turned into an unrelenting proposal from Solm, with Alec acting as the translator, and an unwavering refusal from me. As the weeks have gone by, I’ve continued to (sometimes quite sternly) avoid marriage; and I think the rejection’s been understood as we’re now at polite hellos. Some things just aren’t written in the stars. But FLIP, I think I’m keeping my Habesha name.

Yorodanas trying to pull a quick on on Lamrot.

Before I finish up I want to throw a massive shout out to my brother, Matt! He’s currently in Germany working as an intern for an environmental law firm for the summer, and he’s going to save the world (no, but really- my serious face is on). I haven’t mentioned him much in my entries, but I wouldn’t be here at all if it wasn’t for him. It was following in his footsteps that I even began running all those years ago, and I’ve had plenty of time to recall hilarious pump up chats he gave me before and during races. Like the time he bellowed a Gladiator quote (“At my signal, unleash Hell.”) on the start line of an OUA race and was told to leave by the gunman twice- never gets old.I’m stoked to see him this summer.

ALSO, my (sister) cousin Nicole; thank you for getting my Mum flowers for Mother’s Day because I couldn’t- you are a real star <3, and your new tattoos are unreal ;). AND finally, my other (sister) cousin Rebecca; I’m sorry I missed your 22^nd birthday, but I hope you had a whimsical time in France! <3

So, I think that’s a pretty good recap for now!! 

Latas Xx

Ps. I’ve been sitting in the gardens writing this, and I have laptop (burn) tan now… Seriously, I legit have a white rectangle across my thighs. The things a girl does for social media, I tell ya… ;)

Trip to Addis

Well, I made it. I survived Addis Ababa. “Well done, Steph”, you might think. Picking at your nails, absentmindedly. “Woohoo. What do you want? A treat, for your trip alone into the capital of Ethiopia?” Well…yes actually. A treat sounds nice. And can we cuddle? Keiko is only so big, you know.  Keiko by the way is a small stuffed teddy Orca. He’s pretty much the best; the back story on Keiko- my parents adopted an Orca for Christmas for me (probably the best present ever), and the package came with a small stuffed Orca.

Anyway, following the previous entry- I found myself alone for Easter break, and decided to hit up the capital! I bunked down in a hotel on the outskirts of the city, and was thrilled to have a room to myself with a bathroom (with a sit-down toilet, sink and shower!), a T.V (which only played the news- which was fantastic because I’ve been completely out of the loop), internet strong enough for me to Skype my family and friends, and I EVEN used room service! It was unreal. I slept as long as I liked and listened to Ferengi music- dancing and singing my head off- and watched movies late into the night, without worrying about waking people up.

Now. It may seem very strange that I was that excited and you may even think, “You spoiled thing”. And you’d be right to think so. I’ve only been away for a month, and yet it feels like 3 already. Apart from not knowing what’s going on in the world, I haven’t really missed any of the things the hotel offered. They are all luxuries we can do without. I don’t need internet at Yaya (although being able to skype my family was fantastic), we have a bathroom- not one that I’d want my Mother using, but it gets the job done and its fine! I don’t need movies, and I’m lucky enough to have my ipod – but I know I don’t need it either (I’ve memorized all the Spice Girls songs, so what else do you really need). And pfft, sleeping- while I do sleep-in on occasion, waking up when it’s light and going to bed when it’s dark-what other sleeping pattern do you want? And plus, it’s healthier for you to live that way.

Yaya Horses; I don't mind these friends hanging around!

IN fact, I actually broke out in spots while I was in Addis. They’re only small and they’re going away now- but when I came back, I had these small spots all over my arms, legs and stomach- I think it was to do with the water in town. I’m sure I put on a bit of weight, because instead of eating injera, pasta, porridge, and bread & fruit, I was eating Ferengi pizza, drinking beer & coke, and I even found some chocolate. So while living like a Ferengi was refreshing and the break from the language barrier kept me from going insane, I was pleased when I came back to Yaya. It’s healthier here. It’s easier. Here all I have to worry about is classes, working out and working on ways to further the Yaya Girls Program.

I didn’t just hang out in the Hotel though. I did explore. I wandered outside looking for a place to eat, and while I pretended to know where I was going and look like a local, I received some “friendly” attention from the real locals… and all I could think of was a quote by Adele that goes something like “I am not a dog, I do not respond to whistling”. Amen sista. I was polite though, wanting to find the balance between being nice and telling my new friends to back off. It’s a funny line to tread. After a while I realized I’d have a hard time finding anywhere to eat, and even communicate- so I headed back to the hotel, buying chocolate at a Kiosk stand along the way.  It was definitely worth the trouble for that Snickers Bar.

The next time I headed out I had a plan of action, I would nab a taxi and ask to be taken straight to the museums to avoid all the Heyhowareyas. All was going to plan as my taxi driver brought me to the National Museum- where I was stoked to see Lucy (or Dinknesh, in Amharic), the 3.2 million old skeleton! We pulled up and I asked the taxi driver if he could come back for me in an hour and a half- “Chickeryellum”, (no problem- in Amharic) he said, “I’ll wait for you here. Or, can I come in with you?” Well, sure- can’t say no to that! So off we went, and he’d obviously been there before as he whisked me around the place. Now, I love Ancient History and was once into Archaeology in a big way, working as an intern for Golder one summer- so I was in heaven, and was ingesting every article I could read. Unfortunately, despite having one of the most important pieces in the timeline of human evolution, the National Museum had a pretty shady set up for its artifacts.  Some things weren’t labeled, others were knocked completely off their stands and others were completely MIS-labeled. Besides being in complete amazement, I was disappointed with the showcasing of the human fossils, skeletons and artifacts.

Meanwhile, my taxi driver was taking over the role of a personal museum guide. I don’t know what he said to the people at the front door, but it worked and he got in free and then guided me around, explaining everything to me in broken English. It really would have been gloriously nice of him, if only I couldn’t read the English descriptions (as there were both Amharic and English articles written on each exhibit) on the exhibition cases, and see that he was talking complete rubbish. After 3 hours in the museum, I was exhausted and my patience was drawing thin. He asked me if I was happy and I said I was, but lied and said I had just arrived from Canada so I was very tired- a story I told the hotel staff too, and they were amazed at how much Amharic I knew! (“I learn from book!” – my broken English is awesome). At the end of the tour, after asking me to get a drink with him and whether I was married, he thanked me- astonished I said “No, thank you! That was an awesome tour.” But he insisted and said, “No. Thank you, because when I come to Canada you get me Visa.” Ahh...I brushed it off as a joke, but his seriousness made me admit that I couldn’t. I wouldn’t know how. After some awkwardness we left, and as we got back into the taxi he tried to convince me again to get a drink with him, and that I needed Ethiopian boyfriend- but I sternly said “No, I am tired and I have Canadian boyfriend (a necessary lie), please take me back to the hotel.” Once back I promptly collapsed on my bed.

Another day I ventured downtown to Bole to meet Joseph Kibur, the owner of Yaya Village for a coffee and a chat. It was such a difference having a friend to meet, and while I never actually felt in danger in Addis- it was frustrating to be pestered by men on the street. If you ignore them, you risk upsetting them- and as you hear them raise their voices, it’s all you can do to turn, smile and wave- as though you have no idea what they’re saying. I understand completely that it’s my skin colour that draws this attention- and I think most women have experienced the cat calling, stares, and unwanted comments- what I’m trying to say, is that whether you’re at home or in a foreign place, it is degrading and one of the most uncomfortable things humans can do to each other. Sure, some women see it as empowering- but personally it makes me feel uneasy. So, knowing only what was implied and catching a few English words in a foreign language was enough to have me carry pepper spray with me. **

I hope you don’t mind that I went off on that tangent, overall I promise I DID enjoy myself in Addis. It’s a city filled with history, culture and the hum of life! I place to see for sure!! But for any solo female travelers out there- unfortunately we’ve got to keep our wits about us.

The infamous beer and pizza!
Nom nom nom

On a lighter note, my chats with my family were amazing. One night I ordered a beer but the waiter forgot to take the top off, so while on Skype- my brother and I struggled to find a way to lift it off. Matt researched different methods and cheered me on as I struggled to use a key and then a fork to pry off the top. The end result was a delight, despite being a terrible beer pourer, and it felt like I really shared the drink with him.

Anyway, that’s all from me! The girls are finally all back, so we can have the belated Easter “Egg” hunt with them maybe on Friday- I’m hoping to throw a little party for them!! With fizzy drinks, dream catcher kits that I brought from home and maybe introduce them to some of my tunes! So stay tuned for that!!! It’ll be an entry to look forward too!!

:) x

** I fear I'm painting a bad portrait of men in Ethiopia, and please- that is not my intention! I have met loads of nice people here, I'm just referring to some of the men I've met in passing. I've also had some great taxi drivers- like the one who I shared a intense conversation about Ryan Giggs becoming the new manager of Man United. Some things surpass all sorts of boundaries in life.

Ethiopian Easter

Not long after I arrived at Yaya, Xavier mentioned that the girls would be going away for about 10 days for Easter Break in mid-April.  Fair enough, that’d give me some time to explore and I was excited at the opportunity of having a holiday too!  But then it dawned on me… Xavier would be going away, and the friends I’d made at Yaya would also be gone by then. I began to panic. What would I do for 10 days alone!? As much as I’m dying to travel Africa I’m afraid to do so alone, but I started studying the copy of Lonely Planet- Ethiopia anyway.

There is soo much to do in Ethiopia. So many historical sights to see (the believed site of the Ark of the Covenant..!!! Hello Indiana Jones), Simian mountains to trek, safaris to take, and even (Meredith!) hyenas to feed! Not to mention cities called the Shire and Gondar (Gonder) - so, as you can expect, as a Religious Studies Major and a Lord of the Rings fan; my mind was/is blown. ONLY there’s a tiny voice inside my head that keeps saying “Hey, it’s probably a terrible idea to travel alone in Africa.” I know, life without risks is no life at all- but I can’t help but agree.

SO. I’ve decided to spend the week in Addis Ababa instead and check out the Museums (the National Archaeology Museum has a replica of Lucy, the 3.2 million old skeleton), Historical Monuments (The Lion of Judah- pretty sweet story behind it), have a look at the Cathedrals & Mosques and find all the notorious Juice bars & Cafes in town! I’m also secretly desperate to eat some Ferengi food- I know you lot were snacking on chocolate all weekend! Lucky monkeys.
 

Anyway, I’m here- taking baby steps in exploring Africa and I’m darn lucky. I’m here to be teaching and coaching, not having a holiday- so anything extra is a bonus. Although I’ll be sure to catch a ride with the next travelers passing through Yaya and going up to Axum (one the oldest cities in the world and site of the Ark).  And if I’m not able to get around this time; then I’ll be back. I’ll be back for sure.

Now, I mentioned before that I’m a Religious Major- so I was stoked to see what Easter would be like here in a predominantly Orthodox Christian culture, and I wasn’t let down. Addis was practically Biblical. I was shocked and in heaven (terrible but intended pun).

Orthodox Christians in Ethiopia fast for 55 days preceding Easter, and the fasting varies depending on the intensity of the person. However, almost everyone refrains from eating meat/dairy for those 55 days. Others do this and also refrain from touching others with their hands (so they shake by turning their arm inwards and touching your wrist and lower arm with theirs). And then on Good Friday & Fasika Eve- you really do Fast.

I happened to spend Good Friday in Addis with Banchi.  She was going into town to get some bus tickets to go home, and I needed to do some errands for the YG as well- so we decided to go in together.  Banchi warned me that it’d be really busy, so she suggested we get up at 5 and head in early.  With the language barrier, the ticket purchasing was not communicated- so I just thought we were shopping.  But no matter, I discovered along the way (a common theme in this journey) what we were doing as we arrived at a ticket market-of-sorts.  Ticket vendors lined the inside of a boxed U shaped building.  At first the crowds were scattered but as the morning continued lines began to form as people found their destination vendor, while others sat in large groups under the only shaded areas.  Unfortunately we weren’t able to get any tickets until 12:30 and I didn’t mind, as my brain was so tired I willed away the time by daydreaming.  Daydreaming is also an effective way to avoid stares, and ignore comments, winks & the followings of other ticket purchasers.  But despite many an uncomfortable moment, I was taken in by the amazing abundance of people who were traveling to spend Easter with family or in Holy Sites; dressed in white shawls, carrying their Sunday best, bundles of food, and cradling precious religious ornaments.  Men, women and children patiently sat in the golden dirt, waiting in the unforgivable sun for their tickets.  While others stood/ sat on rocks in a line, praying that a vendor would come soon.  When tickets were purchased, people joyously poured out of the Boxed U (by a small tunnel on one side) to the parking lot to board the awaiting coaches.  It was a sight to behold. 

When Banchi got her tickets we literally skipped out of the building and to the delight of other passerbys, I fist-punched the air, wooping for joy.  We were free from the golden dust and burning sun.  And I was no longer trapped like a zoo animal to be goggled at, in a way that makes you feel your stomach in & exhale at an increasing rate (aka. a bad feeling). 

So off we went on our errand hunt.  I’ll be honest.  It was a disaster, and for good reason.  The streets were filled with people and with animals being led to the slaughter.  Herds of sheep and goats were pushed across streets and even highways.  Bulls and oxen were reluctantly dragged down the pavements, and they helplessly dug their hooves into the litter filled sidewalks as if they knew what was coming.  Shops were closed but vendors were still out for business with people rushing to get their last minute goods for a weekend of celebration. And despite the desolate animals - the streets were practically humming with the excitement and rush of the oncoming of Fasika.

Saturday came, and by this time all the girls had gone home.  It was my first Friday night alone at Yaya, but I didn’t mind- when I woke up I took full advantage of making my own breakfast; a fried egg on toast.  I even found some ketchup and smothered it on!  I followed it up with marmalade on toast, a banana and a pot of chai tea.  It was brilliant.  While I’m getting used to Ethiopian cuisine, it’s amazing how much I’ve missed Ferengi food.

Sunday came, and Lamrot came back from Addis for her shift at Yaya.  She arrived before I woke up, so when I went for breakfast I was greeted by a smiling Lamrot and French toast.  Amazing.  After breakfast we went out into the horses compound and cut long grass to cover the floors of our rooms (only done on special occasions), and later we headed into Addis for a Fasika lunch!  We went to a hotel she trained at as a server, but first we joined a gathering in the basement.  Once again, not really knowing what was going on- I followed Lamrot as she greeted what seemed to be a family sitting in a half circle, watching an old woman carve meat off what I think was a lamb.  I was offered a drink and to the delight of the family I was poured a large class of some sort of juice!  Thirsty; I took a large glup to discovered that it was tef, a Ethiopian alcoholic drink.  I can’t really begin to describe it, but I drank as much as I thought would pass as polite and with every sip took a bite out of the bread that was being passed around.

After a while Lamrot and I headed up stairs for Lamrot's first meat meal in 2 months- a dish of injera with a meat and spinach stew- and we washed it down with a pint of beer! What a way to celebrate! After, we headed to a café for chocolate cake and a macchiato with a friend of Lamrot's from the restaurant- and then headed back to Yaya. 

However, to get home we had to tackle the streets teeming with people and this time, animal skins, carcasses, and random animal body parts. Now, I'm not a vegetarian, but as I tripped over skins and caught myself from falling as I stepped on something still unbeknown to me- I can very much imagine becoming one. What I did appreciate was the fact that every part of the animal slaughtered was used, it's local meat, and at least the chances of hormones being injected into the animals eaten are very slim. Animals aren't treated properly here-but I say that from a Western perspective.  At home our horses are plump and aren't shy of people, dogs are pets or ornaments, donkeys and goats are found in petting zoos and sheep live in grassy pens where they get nice and fat. Here animals are tools and then food, nothing more and nothing less. And fair enough, I would feel sorrier for the animals if it weren't for the poverty that decorates that streets.  We can spoil our domestic animals because we don't need rabid dogs, tamed only enough to act as guard dogs nor do our livelihoods rely on horses or donkeys.

Anyway, off we popped home, and while Lamrot went to work I whizzed through a autobiography of Kelly Holmes (800m & 1500m Gold Medalist in the 2005 Athens Olympics- I can still see her as she came from the back of the pack in the 15, and with 100m to go ripped it to the finish line. incredible woman). What a Ethiopian Easter to behold, and although I didn't go to church I felt like I celebrated it more than I ever had before.

Anyway, I'll have loads more internet for the next couple days, so I'll be taking advantage of it!
Also, the fundraiser for the girls is up and running! It's only functioning until May 1st, so please donate sooner than later or spread on the news of the Yaya Girls to others! I'm sorry I haven't focused on them in this entry- but I've been without them!! :(

I've attached the link to the website; http://startsomegood.com/YGpower where you can find out more about Yaya Girls and meet the lovely spice girls themselves!!
My blog for the Yaya Girls is; http://yayagirls.wordpress.com/2014/04/17/ygpower-fundraiser/
Please check them both out!

Write soon! x
Steph